An afternoon under the arches at Place des Vosges

Victor Hugo, the eminent poet of the Romantic Movement, took up residence at the Hôtel Rohan-Guéméné, located on the south side of Place des Vosges, in 1832. He spent 20 years there prior to being exiled for political reasons. The hotel has since been transformed into a museum devoted to the writer and has just reopened, after two years of extension work - a garden courtyard adding romantism to the settings, plus a new Maison Mulot café, flagship of French pastries and exquisite macarons!
 

The Hugo family's apartment is on show on the second floor exactly as it was when they lived there; the antechamber, red lounge, Chinese lounge, his study and the bedroom with the actual bed in which the poet passed away. Temporary exhibitions are on the first floor and a highly interesting one is on currently, in-line with the reopening, covering the best part of Victor Hugo's drawings. He drew when he was relaxed with loved ones, especially during his travels with lover Juliette Drouet, who was the secret garden of his creativity. He had indeed an outstanding hand and drew all sorts of things in his quest for the odd, bizarre, unreal and even surreal; mainly in ink with dark brown pen & ink washes, plus highlights of gouache paint making the light and shade contrast dramatize his landscapes of trees or medieval towers surrounded in mist.  His Eddystone Light House, standing as if emerging from an obscure dream briming with the unknown, is a perfect example of this. Another is his dreamlike vision of a giant atomic-like mushroom overlooking the surrounding scenery, concealing a faded face underneath the cap. The museum's latest acquisition is of a more realistic order – a delicate view of Pasajes small harbour at the Spanish Basque border, intended for his beloved daughter Léopoldine. Although his drawing talent was a very private affair during his lifetime, it more than equals his very public literary genius.
 

At the end of the tour, we suggest walking under the arches of the ancient royal square, with the statue of Louis XIII on horseback in the middle, to the Pavillon de la Reine and then through to Le Marais. There's a delicious restaurant named Anne, in tribute to Anne of Austria, Louis XIII's spouse, who actually lived there. The Virginia creeper in the courtyard and cosy armchairs in the library-lounge create the elegant settings where Michelin Star Chef Mathieu Pacaud breaks down classic dishes using top-notch quality produce. We recommend the scallop trio, and whatever you chose, don't forget to order the absolutely divine chocolate soufflé for dessert.


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OUR HOTELS CLOSE TO THE PLACE DES VOSGES: