A trip back in time in the centre of Paris

The Cluny Museum in the Latin Quarter is one of a kind. It is the only history museum covering the Middle Ages, a period little-known to the general public, in France. The museum, which opened in the mid 19^thcentury, is inside the castle where the Abbots of Cluny lived since the 13th century and includes the ancient ruins of Roman baths.  However, the layout and collection presentation were out of date and no longer in-line with modern expectations. The concept was therefore fully overhauled to offer visitors better access, show exhibits in a more coherent chronological order, and use themes to enhance the sense of place and spotlight the beauty of the collections.

Starting on the lower floor, visitors will see the frigidarium, the ancient cold room at the Roman baths – the largest thermal baths in the capital in ancient times - including the monumental Pillar of the Boatmen column, a unique example of Gallo-Roman civilisation as the Latin and the Gaulish inscription mentions both Roman and Celtic gods.

On the upper level a collection of sculptures from Notre-Dame cathedral in Paris explains the different stages of the construction, plus interesting exhibits - the massive heads of the Kings of Judah which decorated the cathedral before the French Revolution, as well as a most attractive Adam, a Gothic masterpiece sculptured by Pierre de Montreuil. There are several collections of exceptional works such as the sculptures, reliquary shrines and stained-glass panels from the Sainte-Chapelle (Palais de la Cité) to enjoy. Decorative stained-glass owned by wealthy citizens of the era is also on show next to the religious stained-glass. Chess Players, which depicts a wealthy 15th century couple playing chess, is an absolute marvel as the craftsman played with the transparency, yellow and grey tones and created a look of surprise on the woman’s face as her husband takes her Queen…

The museum’s most emblematic work, the six Lady and the Unicorn tapestries, is saved for the end of the tour. The 15^th century tapestries embroidered with a thousand flowers are made up of large oval on a red background depicting an elegant Lady between a lion and a unicorn amidst flowers and animals. They are said to illustrate the 5 senses (touch, taste, smell, sound and sight), plus a sixth, much more puzzling one named À mon seul désir which can be interpreted in various ways.

The Café des Amis with tables in the museum’s courtyard or the elegant Café de l’Institut Finlandais the other side of Rue Sommerard are the nearest places for a break afterwards. The Brasserie Balzar, a historical brasserie between the Sorbonne and the Collège de France, where Camus, Beauvoir, Malraux and film stars of the day used to socialise due to the many independent cinema theatres in the vicinity, is an excellence choice for dinner. The Art déco interior including large mirrors, dark woodwork, opaline globe lamps and moleskin bench seats, is quite authentic, as are the immutable culinary specialties! The Grenoble-style skate in brown butter, farmhouse Quercy lamb shoulder in salt, finely layered vanilla slice and delicious chocolate mousse have made the Balzar something of a timeless institution in Paris.