Gold has been the precious metal by excellence since the beginning of time. Why is it so attractive? Would the eternal sparkle and particular reflection have anything to do with it? A new example of exquisite beauty - the Mengdiexuan collection - is currently on show at the École des Arts Joaillers. The collection belongs to a couple of Chinese art-lovers from Hong-Kong and covers over 3,000 years of Chinese history, spanning from the Shang dynasty (1600 to 1050 BCE) up to the Qing dynasty (1644 to 1911), the last imperial dynasty which collapsed in 1911. With over one hundred sumptuous ornaments from the prestigious collection on show, the exhibition also explores the metal’s properties and ways of working it, as well as its cultural and symbolic beauty in China.
The introduction explains where gold comes from and how pure gold (24 carat) became a global reference and particularly favoured by jewellers as it can be stretched without breaking, making it easier to work with. The second hall covers ancestral expertise and techniques such as hammering, carving, granulating, watermarking and inlaying. The extraordinary fine detail of the jewellery is admirable, for example the remarkable pair of Ming dynasty lantern-shape earrings. A journey through central Asia, the Mongolian Steppes and the Himalayas commences thanks to showcase upon showcase of necklaces, bracelets and earrings, not forgetting hair accessories and belt buckles (belts were an important part of a Steppe soldier’s uniform to attach swords and knives).The following section reveals the cultural and symbolical importance of all the items –exposing symbols of good fortune, such as the double bottle on earrings, or good health and long life via fish or lanterns.
Human figures are quite rare in contrast with the widely used insects and flowers – take the cicada, for example, which symbolises immortality – jade cicadas were placed inside the deceased’s mouth to stop the breath of life from leaving the body – or the butterfly, symbol of dreams and beauty. Peonies represent status and wealth, while the lotus represents purity and harmony. Chinese culture overflows with imaginary creatures, such as the dragon and the phoenix, which is an important symbol of rebirth and renewal, often in an imperial context linked to the empress against the dragon, combined with imperial power and the emperor himself. This exhibition is an ode to culture and beauty – an absolute must visit! Time for a break afterwards? We suggest Harry’s Bar for a relaxing drink in the polished mahogany decor of a reputed piano bar. Or why not try out Le Castiglione? Red velvet padded chairs and a casual ambiance attracting fashionistas - reputed for the best burger in Paris (the Castiburger), an elegant apple tart and great drinks!
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