Shocking! The surrealist universe of Elsa Schiaparelli

The Italian aristocrat Elsa Schiaparelli decided to move to Paris in the early 1920s, where she met the high-end couturier Paul Poiret – who put an end to corsets – and chose to become a fashion designer herself. Her first success was in 1927 with the bow knot sweater – a knitted sweater with a large pattern imitating a scarf knotted around the neck. She then set up the House of Schiaparelli on Rue de la Paix designing a wide variety of sweaters (with stripes, geometrical shapes, Art Déco designs, sailor tattoo, turtle and fish patterns), as well as boldly coloured bathing costumes in a double-layered jersey stitch fabric which were an immediate hit. She already knew some Dada artists in Switzerland, such as Francis Picabia and his wife Gabrielle, prior to coming to Paris, and socialised with many avant-garde artists who inspired her work during the 1920s and 30s, such as Jean Cocteau, Alberto and Diego Giacometti, Man Ray, Pablo Picasso, Salvador Dalì, Leonor Fini, Meret Oppenheim and Elsa Triolet.

​She started incorporating their work into accessories, which became a major part of her business: costume jewellery, buttons and embroidery based on the artist’s drawings (Cocteau’s long, golden-haired woman decorating a jacket sleeve), gloves (with imitation painted nails marking the partnership with Dalì) and hats (the upside-down shoe hat, also inspired by Dali, was one of her biggest successes).

The exhibition currently on show at the MAD (Musée des Arts Décoratifs) encompasses 520 works, including 272 suits and accessories spotlighting the paintings, sculptures, jewellery, perfume bottles, pottery, posters and photographs produced by some of the most famous people of the time.

Schiaparelli had an incredible career and was the first to design collections based on single themes and present fashion shows choreographed to music: the 1938 Circus Collection made quite a mark due to the sheer amount of imagination and the jet-set who flocked to see it. She was also the first to use a shade of pink called shocking pink and named her most famous perfume Shocking. Her company shut down in 1954 and was relaunched in 2010 by the founder of the Italian Tod’s group.

Daniel Roseberry is the new creative director at Schiaparelli. His designs are highly spectacular as, just like Elsa Schiaparelli, he likes to use flashy accessories, experimenting with unusual materials and playing with the surrealist diversion, as well as working with big showbiz celebrities such as Lady Gaga and Beyoncé, etc. The Schiaparelli name is quite obviously here to stay!

After such a colourful day, how about dinner at the peaceful and relaxing Palais Royal** restaurant under the unique arcades in the Valois Gallery. The Chef, (originally from Greece) trained under Master Chefs Passard and Robuchon and produces creative, Mediterranean-flavoured cuisine. We recommend the scallops, suckling lamb and piglet, followed by the fig or strawberry slice served with vanilla and elderberry flower cream… Dishes to go hand-in-hand with the settings!

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OUR HOTELS CLOSE TO THE MUSÉE DES ARTS DÉCORATIFS: